Mongol Hat Documentation

HL Cerridwen Ravenhawk of Conway

The book of Kings, pictures of Mongols from 14, 15 and 16th c. From viewing the
pictures each hat is different in construction.

The picture of a Mongol from the 16th c looks more like a Sherbush hat, which is a
domed hardened hat, which could have been boiled leather. From the picture it
looks as if the fur used was mink.

The 15th c hat looks like it is a 4 panel hat with a tall point and fabric band. The
14th c picture looks to be 6 panels with a fabric band. The top is more rounded to
fit the head as compared to the 15th c picture. These different constructions may
lend to the fashions and different cultures of the era.

In the Movie MONGOL, you see 4 different variations of hats that were worn. It took
me several days to dissect the hat from pictures to form a pattern that was good
enough to replicate this hat. I am proud to say it has turned out fantastic.
The book MONGOL COSTUME, has a picture of a hat on page 176, from the
1930's, very ornate, the directions say to use 6 pieces, but the diagram shows only
5. (An error I presume on their part).

When making my hats I experimented with several different types of triangles. A
pointed triangle would give a more pointed hat as in the 15thc hat picture on my
page. I also experimented with 6 panels and it comes out very nicely pointed as
well. Depending on how rounded, the width, and curve of the triangles will depend
on what your hat will look like.

Therefore, I am able to say that I can recreate the pictures on my website, with
leather, or wool in four or 6 panels.

Reference:
"Mongol Costume"Hansen, Henny Harald, Rhodos International Science & Art.
Publisher A/S Copenhagen 1993.
The Movie "Mongol" 2007 depicts the life and times of Genghis Khan




Her RH Renee of Tir Righ - 2009 - Wool Bog Coat with fur

The motif that is on the bottom of her coat is from Ancient European Costume
and Fashions, Herbert Norris.

The actual picture is Byzantium, Fig. 115 p. 258, but I found it on another site
called Viking Embroidery and motifs, Viking Embroidery Stitches and Motifs
Copyright � 1993, 1994, 1997 Carolyn Priest-Dorman Permission is granted
to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document.

"The little that can be gathered from the information on the Valsg�rde
embroideries suggests that one of their design motifs was perhaps Byzantine
in inspiration. The stylized vegetation motif shown in the photo in
Graham-Campbell. This is the "collar" piece. The original embroidery is about
4 centimeters wide, on a strip of silk 6 centimeters wide."

The horses on the side are from a Viking tent frame supports (Gokstad,
Norway)
The dragons on the back of her coat a Rune Stone in Gotland, Sweden.


HRM of An Tir Cedric - 2009 Norse inspired, wool, linen lining.

The bottom back of his coat is an appliqu� of a Viking ship from picture stones in
Gotland, Sweden. (Dover Publications)

In the center of the shields I needled felted buffalo wool. I was at an event in Tir Righ
called AT War. The Tir Righ and Avacal War and it was held at a buffalo ranch. I
picked some of the wool up and used it on his coat. Very cool indeed.

The curls on the bottom of his coat were done to depict waves. I took the motif from a
gold torc, (celtic design) Dover Publications. The birds on the back of his coat are
from a Norse site, which I cannot find anymore, but I am still looking.

I used a heavy commercial felt. I loved it because it was raised off of the coat. Very
thick and easy to work with. If I was to make the felt myself it would not have been that
thick. I used a whip stitch to hold down the appliqu� then I embroidered around the
appliqu� to make them pop out and add more colour. I also used a stem stitch on top
of the appliqu� to add more depth. Down the front and around the neck I used a chain
stitch and couched it with gold thread. I also chain stitched around the cuffs. The
appliqu� on his arms are from an ornament on a bronze-gilt weather vane, I only took
part of the design to appliqu�. (Dover Publications)

The Griffins on the front of his coat are of his personal device.





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My Personal Coat documentation - 2009 Cashmere Norse coat, with Celtic motifs.

Yes, I know, I have done a Norse coat with Celtic motifs, but that is what I liked at the time.

The appliqu� work is done with a heavy commercial felt.

The pattern down the front is from a gold torc, Dover Publications. The pattern at the bottom of
the front is a Urnes-style bone pin, Dover Publications. The pattern on the arms is from a sword
hilt, Dover Publications. The pattern on the bottom front of my coat is a partial pattern from a
spiral design on a sword hilt. Dover Publications. On the bottom back of my coat is a design
from a norse site that I have to find again. Oops.

On the back of my coat is the Hounds of Annwn.

I used a whip stitch to hold down the appliqu� then I embroidered around them as well as on
them. I also added amber beads on the front motifs to add a touch of colour and style.

Embroidery stitches used: stem, and chain. I used a stem stick around the seams.

I also added some bone designs on my cuffs. On the back and front are lamp work beads in
the shape of bones. As most of you know I am a animal person and I love my dog, Zeus.